Ordinary Niacinamide vs Hyaluronic Acid Which to Choose

In the ever-expanding universe of skincare, few brands have disrupted the industry quite like The Ordinary. With its clinical approach to skincare formulations and focus on single-ingredient solutions, The Ordinary has made advanced skincare accessible to everyone. Among their bestsellers, two products consistently stand out: Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% and Hyaluronic Acid, 2% + B5. These popular serums address different skincare concerns, leading many to wonder: which one is right for me? Or do I need both?

This comprehensive guide will dive deep into the science behind these ingredients, their benefits, who should use them, and how they can complement each other in your skincare routine.

Understanding the Basics: What Are These Ingredients?

Before deciding which serum you need, it’s essential to understand what these ingredients actually are and how they function in skincare formulations.

Niacinamide: The Multi-Tasking Powerhouse

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a water-soluble vitamin that has gained tremendous popularity in skincare for good reason. It’s one of the most versatile active ingredients available, with research backing its effectiveness for multiple skin concerns.

At the molecular level, niacinamide serves as a precursor to two essential coenzymes in our cells: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) and its phosphate form (NADP+). These coenzymes are vital for cellular energy production and numerous metabolic processes that help maintain healthy skin.

In The Ordinary’s formulation, the 10% concentration is considered the sweet spot—high enough to deliver visible results but gentle enough for most skin types. The addition of 1% zinc PCA enhances its sebum-regulating properties while providing mild antimicrobial benefits.

Hyaluronic Acid: The Hydration Hero

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found throughout the body’s connective tissues, with about 50% of it present in the skin. What makes HA remarkable is its extraordinary capacity to hold water—it can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water.

As we age, our skin’s natural hyaluronic acid levels decline, contributing to dehydration, fine lines, and loss of plumpness. The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 features multiple molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to target different skin layers, complemented by vitamin B5 (panthenol) to enhance surface hydration and further support skin barrier function.

The Benefits Breakdown: What Each Serum Does for Your Skin

Now that we understand what these ingredients are, let’s explore their specific benefits and how they address different skin concerns.

Niacinamide Benefits: Beyond Just Oil Control

Niacinamide offers an impressive array of skin benefits:

1. Regulates Sebum Production For those with oily or combination skin, niacinamide’s ability to normalize sebum (oil) production is perhaps its most celebrated benefit. Research shows it can reduce sebum excretion rates, leading to less oily skin and potentially fewer breakouts.

2. Minimizes Pore Appearance By regulating oil production and strengthening the skin’s barrier, niacinamide can make enlarged pores appear smaller and less noticeable over time.

3. Improves Skin Texture and Tone Regular use can lead to smoother, more refined skin texture and more even skin tone by supporting healthy cell turnover and function.

4. Brightens and Reduces Hyperpigmentation Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin to skin cells, helping to fade dark spots and prevent new ones from forming. This makes it excellent for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne or sun damage.

5. Strengthens the Skin Barrier By increasing ceramide and fatty acid levels in the skin, niacinamide helps repair and maintain a healthy skin barrier, which is essential for retaining moisture and protecting against environmental damage.

6. Has Anti-inflammatory Properties The anti-inflammatory nature of niacinamide makes it suitable for sensitive skin conditions like rosacea and helps calm general redness and irritation.

7. Offers Antioxidant Protection As an antioxidant, niacinamide helps protect skin cells from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage.

8. May Help with Fine Lines and Wrinkles Research suggests niacinamide can boost collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles when used consistently over time.

Hyaluronic Acid Benefits: More Than Just Hydration

While hyaluronic acid is primarily known for hydration, its benefits extend beyond simply adding moisture:

1. Provides Intense Hydration HA’s extraordinary water-binding capability means it can significantly boost skin’s moisture content, resulting in plumper, more hydrated skin.

2. Works for All Skin Types Unlike some hydrators that might feel heavy or greasy, HA has a lightweight texture suitable for all skin types, including oily and combination skin.

3. Creates a Plumping Effect By drawing water into the skin, HA creates an immediate plumping effect that temporarily reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

4. Enhances Skin Barrier Function Proper hydration is essential for optimal skin barrier function. HA helps maintain this barrier, protecting against moisture loss and environmental aggressors.

5. Accelerates Wound Healing Research shows HA plays a crucial role in wound healing by regulating inflammation and signaling the body to build more blood vessels in damaged tissues.

6. Promotes Skin Elasticity Well-hydrated skin maintains better elasticity, and HA’s moisture-boosting properties help keep skin supple and resilient.

7. Soothes Irritation The hydrating properties of HA can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

8. Provides a Smooth Canvas for Makeup By ensuring skin is properly hydrated, HA creates a smooth surface for makeup application, helping prevent the dreaded cakey look that can occur with dehydrated skin.

Who Should Use Which Serum?

While both serums offer impressive benefits, your specific skin concerns should guide your choice. Let’s break down who might benefit most from each product.

You Might Need Niacinamide If:

Your skin is oily or combination: Niacinamide’s sebum-regulating properties make it ideal for those struggling with excess oil production.
You have enlarged or congested pores: The pore-refining benefits can help minimize the appearance of enlarged pores.
You’re dealing with acne or breakouts: Between its sebum control, anti-inflammatory properties, and the addition of zinc in The Ordinary’s formulation, this serum can help manage acne-prone skin.
You have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Those dark marks left behind after pimples can fade faster with consistent niacinamide use.
You have uneven skin tone or discoloration: Whether from sun damage or other factors, niacinamide helps even out skin tone over time.
Your skin barrier needs strengthening: If you’ve damaged your skin barrier through over-exfoliation or harsh products, niacinamide can help repair it.
You’re focused on anti-aging: The collagen-boosting and antioxidant properties make niacinamide a good choice for preventative aging concerns.

You Might Need Hyaluronic Acid If:

Your skin feels tight or dehydrated: HA is the ultimate solution for dehydrated skin that needs a moisture boost.
You live in a dry climate: Environmental factors like low humidity can strip skin of moisture, making HA essential.
You use drying active ingredients: If you use retinoids, exfoliating acids, or benzoyl peroxide, HA can help counteract their drying effects.
You have fine lines due to dehydration: Sometimes fine lines are simply a sign of dehydrated skin, which HA can address immediately.
You want a plumper skin appearance: The instant plumping effect makes HA great for those wanting more volume in their skin.
You have sensitive skin that reacts to many products: HA is generally well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
You’re dealing with environmental stressors: HA helps maintain hydration even when your skin is fighting environmental challenges.

Can You Use Both Together? The Case for Complementary Care

Here’s the good news: niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are not merely compatible—they’re complementary. Using both can provide a more comprehensive approach to skin health than either one alone.

Why They Work Well Together

They address different concerns: Niacinamide tackles oil control, texture, and pigmentation, while HA focuses on hydration and plumping.
Similar formulation types: Both are water-based serums with similar consistencies, making them easy to layer.
No pH conflicts: Unlike some skincare ingredients that need specific pH environments to work effectively, these two won’t interfere with each other’s efficacy.
Balanced approach: Together, they provide a balanced approach to skincare—regulating oil while ensuring proper hydration.

How to Use Both in Your Routine

If you decide to incorporate both serums, here’s how to layer them effectively:

Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser appropriate for your skin type.
Apply hyaluronic acid first to slightly damp skin. This gives the HA molecules water to bind to and draw into the skin.
Follow with niacinamide after the HA has had a moment to absorb (about 30-60 seconds).
Complete with moisturizer to seal in the active ingredients and provide additional hydration and protection.
Don’t forget sunscreen in the morning to protect your skin, especially since addressing hyperpigmentation requires sun protection.

Special Considerations and Potential Side Effects

While both ingredients are generally well-tolerated, there are some considerations to keep in mind:

Niacinamide Considerations:

Some people may experience mild flushing when first using niacinamide, especially at higher concentrations. This typically subsides as the skin adjusts.
A small percentage of users may experience irritation or breakouts. If this occurs, try using it less frequently or diluting it with a simple moisturizer.
The Ordinary’s formulation includes zinc, which can be drying for those with already dry skin types.

Hyaluronic Acid Considerations:

HA works best in environments with some humidity. In extremely dry climates, it may actually pull moisture from deeper skin layers if not sealed with an occlusive moisturizer.
Some people might react to the molecular weight of certain HA formulations. The Ordinary uses multiple weights to minimize this concern.
Overuse of HA without proper sealing can paradoxically lead to drier skin in some cases.

Myths and Misconceptions

Let’s address some common misconceptions about these ingredients:

Myth 1: Niacinamide and vitamin C can’t be used together. This outdated advice stems from older research using unstable forms of vitamin C. Modern formulations of both ingredients can be used together, though some people may prefer to use them at different times of day (niacinamide in the morning, vitamin C in the evening) for optimal results.

Myth 2: Hyaluronic acid exfoliates the skin. Despite having « acid » in its name, HA is not an exfoliant. It’s a hydrating ingredient that doesn’t remove skin cells or cause sensitivity to sunlight.

Myth 3: Only dry skin needs hyaluronic acid. All skin types can benefit from proper hydration. Even oily skin can be dehydrated and will function better when properly hydrated.

Myth 4: Niacinamide only works for oily skin. While it’s excellent for managing sebum, niacinamide’s barrier-strengthening and brightening benefits make it valuable for most skin types.

Making Your Final Decision

When deciding between The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% and Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, consider your primary skin concerns:

Choose Niacinamide if: Your main concerns are oil control, enlarged pores, uneven texture, or pigmentation issues. It’s the more « treatment-oriented » of the two serums, targeting specific skin problems rather than basic hydration needs.

Choose Hyaluronic Acid if: Your primary concern is dehydration, or you’re looking for a basic hydrating serum that will complement other active ingredients in your routine. It’s an excellent foundation product that almost everyone can benefit from.

Choose Both if: You have combination concerns—perhaps an oily T-zone with dehydrated cheeks, or you’re dealing with both breakouts and dehydration. Using them together provides a more comprehensive approach to skin health.

Conclusion: It’s Not Always Either/Or

In the debate between The Ordinary’s Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid serums, the answer isn’t always a simple either/or choice. For many, the ideal solution is incorporating both into their skincare routine, addressing multiple concerns simultaneously.

The beauty of The Ordinary’s minimalist approach to formulation is that their products are designed to work together, allowing for personalized skincare routines that can evolve with your skin’s changing needs. Whether you choose one or both, consistency is key—visible results typically require several weeks of regular use.

Remember that everyone’s skin is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another. Pay attention to how your skin responds, and don’t hesitate to adjust your routine accordingly. With patience and the right ingredients, you can achieve the balanced, healthy complexion you’re seeking.

Whether you’re targeting excess oil, enlarged pores, and uneven tone with niacinamide, boosting hydration and plumpness with hyaluronic acid, or creating a comprehensive approach with both, The Ordinary offers effective solutions that won’t complicate your skincare journey.